Thursday 7 February 2013

Hackney Unpackaged


This is a dinner review, but the dinner in question happens in a shop, turned restaurant, I want to tell you about the whole package (see what I did there?). 

Unpackaged, Hackney sits right next to Lardo - one of the 'it' restaurants du jour (review here). Unpackaged could be described as Lardo's unassuming little sister, or for your purposes the place to go to when the Lardo queue is too long. Personally, I'd recommend making the trip for this place alone. It really is very good for dinner but the shop is an absolute must if you're local. 


Shop first:

I'm not usually a fan of 'concept' stores. Mainly because the concept has a tendency to get in the way of the store - if I want to listen to deafening music, I'll go to a gig. If I want to lie down, I'll go to bed. I don't need to be able to do either of these things whilst buying groceries. 

Unpackaged is not this kind of concept store. Unpackaged simply shows us the future of sustainable grocery shopping. The idea: An organic refill shop where you bring your own packaging and fill it. You can even drop off containers and your shopping list on your way to work, then come back to collect it at the end of the day. Prices are based on weight, so there's no premiums on brands, bottled air or any of the usual Whole Foods (whole pay cheque) nonsense to contend with. 

The shop is filled with loose grains, seeds, nuts, fruits. It also has condiments, confectionary and a fresh offering including organic groceries and baked produce: their bread is absolutely gorgeous. 


The no-frills aesthetic makes everything look great, even laundry powder.



Much better than most supermarket stocked olive oil at far, far better prices!


Now to the dinner:

From around 7.30 or 8, they write up a fresh daily menu on big chalk boards at the back of the room, crack open a few well selected and excellently priced bottles of wine and start to serve. Tables are intimate and candle-lit, wine is served in tumblers, food is inventive and delicately flavoured. Oh and at between £6 and £12 per plate, you can't go wrong. Usually I'd expect teensy portions at a place like this, so I was pleasantly surprised to receive three full plates of food between the two of us, with a couple of extra nibbly bits for good measure. 



Miniature tortilla bites to start.


Beetroot curry with raita.


Meatballs in stewed tomato and Unpackaged signature bread.


Fishcakes with fresh coleslaw, a great homemade tartare and freshly pickled cucumber.


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