Elle's Weekender a Paris

The girls on our trip last December

Un petit weekender a Paris? Pour quois pas?

A couple of weeks ago, I was swept away to Paris for the weekend. I've long loved Paris, but fell head over heels in love with it again when I visited last year to see a friend who lives there now. I had been wanting to go back ever since, so it was wonderful to find myself back there this year in startling sunlight rather than the predicted rain feeling very pleased indeed. 

The galleries in Paris are some of my favourites in the world. Le Pompidou Centre currently has a Salvador Dali exhibition on, which is well worth the queue (over an hour) to get in. I usually make the trip over to Le Pompidou when I'm in Paris to say hello to a few old friends in the permanent collection. One of them is currently in London (Duchamp's urinal at The Barbican's Bride and The Bachelors exhibition so if you're not going to be in Paris for a bit, then do take the opportunity to see it). 

We also skipped to The Louvre, which in my book must be treated either as a full on expedition or a fleeting visit to see old friends. I prefer the latter approach, as it's far too stressful to wander endless corridors in a museum with just one exit and no proper signposting. It was wonderful to see The Raft of the Medusa again and to remember some of my Art History lessons by teaching someone else - one of the greatest pleasures.

I'm not much of a shopper but I am a real sucker for window shopping in Paris. So many unusual gems to marvel over - and the best shops are apparently never open too so there's little risk of spending any euros on things which would only smash on the journey home. This organic ceramic shop can be found a short walk away from Le Pompidou. We also headed to The Vintage shops in Le Marrais near St. Paul metro. My friend Rosa's favourite is Coiffeur on Rue des Rosies, covered here along with some other gems if you are planning a trip. 

Mainly when in Paris, I eat as many different kinds of pastry as I can find/ fit in my face at the expense of a few proper meals so I'll just tell you about the three best meals we had out during our stay - all of very different kinds. The first, we stumbled across entirely by accident when we were famished post-gallery. 

It was about 3pm on a Sunday when we walked past Alain Ducasse's 'Aux Lyonnaise' and couldn't quite continue walking without going in to have an assiette de rosette de Lyon. Translation: A huge plate of Lyonnaise cured meat, sliced so fine that it practically melts on your tongue. 

We washed this down with Rose Brut and were planning on ordering a simple green salad for good measure until we saw the splendour of this one and couldn't help ourselves.

The salad of king (prawns)

Our big planned meal was to be had at Le Train Bleu - the old station restaurant at Le Gare de Lyon. This place is a fantastic picture of Paris 1900 preserved. Your experience is heightened if you arrive in style (via Le Metro), as you slowly climb your way up from the filth, surrounded by travellers with their bags into a fully functioning train station when a neon sign - in this instance, with some of the lights blown out - alerts you to the entrance. If you didn't know what was inside, you'd think you were looking at the outside of the French equivalent to a station Wetherspoons until you enter. 

Eating in old train coach seats adds to the experience

The service and the food are pretty much stuck in this era also which has its benefits as well as its downfalls (a couple of the dishes were more miss than hit). I'd recommend heading down here for a drink or dinner regardless, but have only photographed the decor for you now as it really is the best thing about the experience. Train travel was the height of luxury back in 1900. Each of the arches above the windows displays a different image from one of the destinations that Le Gare de Lyon used to travel to - these are typically 1900s France (i.e. borderline racist), but make for interesting historical viewing. The restaurant was built in celebration of the 1900 Universal Exhibition that Paris held in celebration of France's colonial prowess so it's little wonder that the room resembles the Sistine chapel remained Bourgeoisie style. 

The third meal was had on our last night, very close to our Air BnB apartment in a little place called simply Cave Cafe at 134 Rue Marcadet. Here we had three courses the best French bistro food I've had in years, with cocktails and wine, all for under the equivalent of £40. We were the only non-French people in the place other than our Italian waitress, we were tucked cosily away in a little corner listening to bad French rock music played live out of the adjourning wine bar - the atmosphere was perfect. 

We ate:

Soft cheese in a light pasta fold and mustard-dressed green salad.

Squid cooked in chorizo and chilli.

Slow cooked lamb leg with salsa verde, mash and courgette.

Entrecote steak with goose fat potatoes.

...and of course, a crème brûlée to share.

In the evenings, we headed to Pigalle to dance the night away. My current favourite venu is Le Carmen, which is the house that Carmen was written in, transformed into a drinking establishment and does a mean Amaretto Sour or Classic Champagne.

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