Thursday, 3 September 2015

Copenhagen Weekender: My favourite Nørrebro hood

Superkillen Park

Scandi weekenders are fast becoming a personal tradition. There is just something about the style, pastries, beards and food philosophy in that part of the world that keeps me coming back. This bank holiday weekend I discovered Copenhagen for the first time, and got to know the lovely little neighbourhood of Nørrebro

I spent most of the time gorging myself with the New Nordic Cuisine (I will post about this later) and the rest of the time locallyWhilst Nørrebro is a little rough around the edges, it centres around a charming parade of artisan bakeries, ceramics workshops, cafes, and boutiques. It has a lovely local feel that allows you to relax into the lifestyle. You can also get some very reasonable Airbnb's around this area because it is 'up and coming' so I would definitely recommend it. I have listed some of my favourite spots below which should give you a bit of a feel for it:

I kick-started every morning with a cappuccino from Coffee Collective (Jægersborgade 10) and a pastry from Meyers Bagieri (Jægersborgade 9), except for Monday when I had a proper sit down breakfast at Grød (Jægersborgade 50). Grød is one of those trendy porridge cafes and makes a delicious dulce de leche and apple version. It's also pretty great for people watching in the early morning when a lot of the locals come in. 

Lunch and Dinner 
Relae (Jægersborgade 41) is also just around the corner. Set up by ex-Noma chef Christian F. Puglisi. I was pretty frustrated not to be able to get a booking despite having been on the waiting list months before but have heard very good things. 

Mikkeller and Friends (Stefansgade 35) offers its own, Danish-brewed, beer alongside some other interesting brands. Look out for Milk Stout (dark and chocolatey but surprisingly light) and I Beat You (full bodied and hoppy). There is also an 18% beer aged in whiskey and tequila bottles that left me feeling pretty dizzy - you have been warned!

My favourite shop of the trip has to be Mette Juhl's (Jægersborgade 4). She sells her beautiful, architectural jewellery alongside that of two other artists.

If you are on the lookout for something for your home, Inge Vincent (Jægersborgade 27) makes incredibly delicate ceramic vases, cups and tea light holders. I particularly loved the Asian inspired folded banana leaf and dim sum steamer shapes.

If you walk up and down Jægersborgade and Stefansgade you will find plenty of other interesting boutiques, handmade confectionary makers, and art shops to explore. 

Henrik Vibsov

Outside Nørrebro there are many more fantastic shops selling Danish designs that are either hard to find or more expensive in London. I particularly loved Henrik Vibsov (Krystalgade 6) where I bought a rather special jumper and the Acne Archive Outlet (Elmegade 21), though the Stockholm one is better. However, if you are in a rush and want a well-edited selection of Danish brands, Illum Bolighus (Amagertorv 10) first floor and the surrounding area are great (look out for Munthe, Samsoe & Samsoe, Birger et Mickelson, Day Birger, Fillipa K, Ganni, Bruuns Bazaar, and Norse Projects)

There are a thousand things to see in Copenhagen but two more unusual destinations near Nørrebro are Superkilen Park and Grundstvig Church

Find a map of my hit list for Nørrebro and beyond here and a useful journey planner here