Thursday 26 September 2013

Quick review: Koya

I have been walking past Koya longingly gazing into its doorway, wafting the savoury sweet smell of Miso my way for a few months. It was only last night after catching a performance at The Soho Theatre and emerging starving an  hour later, that I managed to finally eat here. 



The queue only took about 15 minutes to clear, during which time we perused (argued over) the complex and exotic menu. There's a lot of old favourites on here: billowing pillows of vegetable tempura, so fluffy you could lay your head to rest on them, simple udon and donburi with a variety of toppings, seaweed salad etc. But also a lot of more adventurous options - especially on the Specials board - dandelion anyone? When there's so much on offer, it's good to have a little queue time to make your decision. 



 Once seated, we ordered two cups of hot sake, which came in these cheery little jars. I went for two dishes off the specials menu: The soy pickled fennel which was crunchy, fresh and deliciously tangy, and the tempura savoy cabbage, which was only battered in a fine panko crisp on the outside leaving the cabbage inside pure. This was warming and comforting, strangely reminiscent in taste and smell of toad in the hole. I tried to describe this to a neighbouring group who were leaning in with food envy, but they didn't quite get the reference - guess you have to try it for yourself.






We polished off the last of the cabbage and started on the meat: Their infamous pork belly, which the waiter informed me they regularly sell out of, so if you go, make sure to let them know as soon as you can that you want this. Trust me, you will. This was incredibly tender and flavoursome. 



 We ended with the hot Udon with duck. I thought it was excellent, if a little simple. Next time, I would have gone for one of the cold udon. This means they place the udon separate on a little plate and you get more broth with your meat. The broth is a shimmering, rich meaty delight - my favourite bit of the Udon dishes, and the smell that has been enticing me for so long from outside. 



Koya, you are exquisite. We will be back.
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