...welcome to the sisterhood: September 2013

Monday, 30 September 2013

Tom Kerridge's Hand and Flowers

Tom Kerridge has been getting a lot of press recently with the launch of his BBC series Proper Pub Food, following on from beeing awarded a second Michellin star in 2012. Having always had a bit of a soft spot for him (and the look of his food) on Great British Menu, I decided to go and see for myself what all the fuss is about.

His gastropub, The Hand and Flowers, is in Marlow, Buckinghamshire - a sweet little town on the river Thames. It takes a good hour and a half to get there and you can either get the hourly train straight to Marlow or a faster and more regular train to High Wycombe followed by a taxi. If you are driving there are some scenic stately homes near enough so you could make a proper outing if it. On foot however, there isn't much to do (other than a nice little riverside walk), so it is a big trip just for a meal.

Although Elle and I rarely give bad reviews and simply omit our worse experiences from the blog, there is so much hype around this place that I thought it might be useful viewing. First though, I must admit that my expectations were extremely high. Upon opening in 2005 the pub quickly rose to fame and was awarded a Michellin star that year, achieving its second in 2012 - the first pub to do so. Although I don't have the income or the inclination to seek out Michelin starred establishments wherever I go, the few I have been to have indeed been very good and two Michelin stars begs the question, why, what is so much more surprising / consistent / delicious?!

I was disappointed not to find the answer. I didn't love any of it. Nothing gave me that heady sense of euphoria that a really, really excellent dish can, nor did I feel comforted, warm and fuzzy by the end. I didn't feel ripped off in any way (the prices are pretty reasonable), I just didn't feel at all inspired and was left a little confused by Michelin's accolade.

When we arrived I was surprised to find a sweet little pub-like building in a not so picturesque location (admittedly we went mid-construction of a second bar area). Nevertheless, the window tables look out on to a road where I had envisaged a nice little garden, or even better, the river! We arrived 10 minutes early and waited 20 minutes to be seated (the couple before us had overstayed their allotted two hours but the staff were too polite to rush them). As an apology, our drinks were complementary. Fine by me.

To start with I had the Demi “En Croute” of Whole Baby Truffle with Foie Gras and Port for £18.50, a golf ball sized pastry with a white truffle centre, surrounded by chicken and frois gras parfait. I liked this a lot but the frois gras didn't stand up to the truffle, it's flavour having been too diluted by the chicken. The sauce was good, meaty, sweet but sharp, and tied the whole thing together. So far so good.

The Mr had the salt cod scotch egg with red pepper sauce and chorizo for £11.50 -a quails egg encased by turmeric-stained salt cod which had been breaded and deep fried. I like salt cod but here it was too salty, and any delicacy of flavour was taken away by the stodgy, deep fried coating. Give me the Bull and Last's scotch egg any day!

For the main course I had the Tenderloin of Wiltshire Pork with Pickled Mustard Leaf, Malt Glazed Cheek, Garlic Sausage and Potato Dauphine for £25.50 and was very disappointed. The loin was a beautiful cut of meat, full of flavour and delicately handled (sous vide I think) but the other elements pulled the dish in a direction that I really didn't like. The 'garlic sausage' was very smokey and reminiscent of frankfurters whilst the pickled mustard leaf had the flavour of sauerkraut. The mustardy mayonnaise was cloying and didn't really go with the meat whilst a piece of ham lay confusedly on the plate. The whole dish was a disparate mix of Bavarian flavours which hadn't been adequately communicated by the menu description (if it had I would have steered clear since that sort of cuisine is one of my least favourites). The sweet, glazed pork cheek was at least pretty tasty on its own.

I also tried the Slow Cooked Duck Breast with Peas, Duck Fat Chips and Gravy for £28 which was much better bit still a little soul-less - a tried and tested formula that is safe but not magnificent and easily done en masse. The duck fat chips were too processed for my liking and lacking any deep potato flavour. The greens were far too salty but once again the main meat element, the duck breast, was perfectly cooked with a good sauce.

For pudding we shared the Hand & Flowers Chocolate and Ale Cake with Salted Caramel and Muscovado Ice Cream. This was good and tiny (which is probably a good thing because it is so rich). When you delve into it and hit its salt caramel centre, the delicious sauce will seep out of it. It was good but not incredible.

All in all, it really pains me to say that I don't think it was worth the journey.... I might however return for the £16 fish and chips since I really want to give Tom Kerridge another chance!

tom kerridge hand and flowers blog review tom kerridge hand and flowers blog review tom kerridge hand and flowers blog review

Friday, 27 September 2013

Dabbling in Dab

The weekend is coming and for me that means a big weekly shop at my local farmers market, yum! I have recently been experimenting with the 'catch of the day' / whatever is cheapest at the fish stall since it seems that whatever I buy there is so fresh it is delicious.

What the fish stall at Parliament Hill Farmer's Market catch varies a lot, but if you see any sand dab, they are well worth a shot. Sand dab are by far the most common flat fish, and very sustainable as wild fish go. When the fish stall does sell them, they you can probably get around three for a fiver so there is no excuse not to treat yourself!

It always amuses me that, like sole, dab are of a type of fish that is born with eyes on the left and right of its head before one eye travels over and the fish becomes a flat fish as it grows up. The sand dab I bought had a delicious, delicate flavour to them much like good lemon sole but much cheaper. The fish are admittedly a little smaller than the more expensive flat fish so arguably a bit more fiddly, but if you cook them right the flesh will slide beautifully off the bones.

My recipe is very simple so you can taste how fresh the fish are.

Dab and Salsa Verde

Serves 3

Prep time: 15mins

Serving suggestions: warmed up ciabatta and a couple of salads

The Fish

3 large sand dab

1 teacup full of plain white flour

Salt

Pepper

Oil for frying

Lemon to serve

The Salsa Verde

20g basil (leaves picked)

20g mint (leaves picked)

20g parsley ((leaves picked)

4 anchovy fillets

1 small crushed clove of garlic

1 tbsp capers

250ml extra virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

For the salsa

Finely slice the herbs (if you use a food processor it won’t be quite as nice) with the crushed garlic, anchovies and capers. I like to use a mezzaluna such as this one since it really speeds up the process.

Then stir in the lemon and oil until all incorporated and you are done.

For the fish

Dust the fish in seasoned flour. Heat up a large, flat pan with a coating of oil to a medium heat. Once the oil is hot, drop the fish in and cook for 3-4 minutes per side.

Thursday, 26 September 2013

Quick review: Koya

I have been walking past Koya longingly gazing into its doorway, wafting the savoury sweet smell of Miso my way for a few months. It was only last night after catching a performance at The Soho Theatre and emerging starving an hour later, that I managed to finally eat here.

The queue only took about 15 minutes to clear, during which time we perused (argued over) the complex and exotic menu. There's a lot of old favourites on here: billowing pillows of vegetable tempura, so fluffy you could lay your head to rest on them, simple udon and donburi with a variety of toppings, seaweed salad etc. But also a lot of more adventurous options - especially on the Specials board - dandelion anyone? When there's so much on offer, it's good to have a little queue time to make your decision.

Once seated, we ordered two cups of hot sake, which came in these cheery little jars. I went for two dishes off the specials menu: The soy pickled fennel which was crunchy, fresh and deliciously tangy, and the tempura savoy cabbage, which was only battered in a fine panko crisp on the outside leaving the cabbage inside pure. This was warming and comforting, strangely reminiscent in taste and smell of toad in the hole. I tried to describe this to a neighbouring group who were leaning in with food envy, but they didn't quite get the reference - guess you have to try it for yourself.

We polished off the last of the cabbage and started on the meat: Their infamous pork belly, which the waiter informed me they regularly sell out of, so if you go, make sure to let them know as soon as you can that you want this. Trust me, you will. This was incredibly tender and flavoursome.

We ended with the hot Udon with duck. I thought it was excellent, if a little simple. Next time, I would have gone for one of the cold udon. This means they place the udon separate on a little plate and you get more broth with your meat. The broth is a shimmering, rich meaty delight - my favourite bit of the Udon dishes, and the smell that has been enticing me for so long from outside.

Koya, you are exquisite. We will be back.
Flo and Elle Flo and Elle London Review Koya Udon London Japanese London Japanese London Koya Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Flo and Elle Flo and Elle London Review Koya Udon London Japanese London Japanese London Koya Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street Frith Street

Monday, 23 September 2013

Flo's Weekender: Paris

Let me begin this post by saying don't do a long weekend in Paris at the end of August / beginning of September! If you don't already know (I didn't) the majority of good independent restaurants close up for the school holidays.

That said, I still had a wonderful time and discovered one great place to sleep, one great place to eat,and a weird & wonderful place to see!

Where to sleep: rue des trois freres

I found this gem though posting 'does anyone know anywhere good and cheap to stay in Paris?' on Facebook. My ever-knowledgable acquaintances came up trumps and I was recommended a friend of a friend's apartment that is listed on Air b&b. The apartment is full of personality with quirky little design touches at every corner from road signs and traffic light lights to a gorgeous antique chaise longue.

Ideally situated in Montmartre with Abesses metro station on its doorstep, it is the perfect home away from home. The hostess (who stays elsewhere during your occupancy) also leaves you with fantastic local recommendations and a bottle of wine if you are lucky! The rue des abesses had a great bakery called Grenier pain, a wonderful delicatessen with pâtés to die for, and an extremely exciting fromagerie just off it on rue lepic (they sell truffle-centred Brie!!!) there is also a nice Thai-French fusion restaurant up the road from the flat whose name escapes me.

If the apartment tickles your fancy, you can book here.

Queue for Le Grenier Pain

Indoor picnic

Where to eat: Chez Janou

This buzzing bistro is good fun and ideally booked in advance. We went twice. The dishes are hearty and pretty traditional. I had the calves liver which was cooked just right while the Mr had rabbit (which was less to my liking but still good). The next time we had ducks breast with a cherry sauce (the best dish so far) and a rack of lamb doused in a very meaty sauce.

The place is famous for its all you can eat chocolate mousse. They literally give you a humongous bowl from which you scoop out a reasonable (or in many cases unreasonable and unconquerable) portion. This is all perfectly fun but can leave you feeling pretty sick. What was fun was their expansive collection of pastis and absinthe. I had a melon one as a digestif.

Where to see: La Musee de la chasse et la nature

Following another good friend's recommendation, I discovered the museum de la chasse et la nature.

my blurry shot of the walls above!

The museum was set up in the 60s by a country gentleman and his wife in order to display their hunting memorabilia. As such, it is characterful and quite personal, as well as in many instances, a little bit strange!

Each room is themed by a different animal in which you find related art and artifacts from the middle ages right up to 21st century. The collection is as eccentric as it sounds and includes a huge array of feats in taxidermy from a gigantic polar bear to rare and eerie looking birds (see below). Refreshingly charismatic and definitely worth a visit!

Friday, 20 September 2013

Quick Review: Bar Esteban

This Wednesday, I wrapped up warm and braved the blustering wind and rain up Crouch Hill to find refuge in red wine and tapas. I was pleasantly (and very) surprised to find some of the best Tapas in London accompanied by impeccable service and a great wine list to boot. Since going, I've discovered that the chef is indeed Pablo Rodríguez López, ex Morito super star so it makes a lot of sense that it would be this great.

I wasn't prepared to review so I took some iPhone snaps for your viewing pleasures.

Crisp cava and ice-cold beer.

Exposed brick work and specials scribbed on the blackboard - obviously...

Salt cod croquetas which were perfectly cooked and satisfyingly flakey in the middle (see second picture). I had mine with a dab of tabasco...

Chorizo bursting with spicy red juices.

An array of beautiful vegetable dishes including spinach with pine nuts and Pico - a mixture of courgette, aubergine and tomatoes cooked much like a ratatouille. This was my favourite bit about Bar Esteban (apart from the dessert). It is rare for tapas restaurants to have as good and non greasy a selection of vegetable accompaniments to the meats and grease that tapas is so famous for. These were perfect.

Finally, the star of the show: a perfect crema catalana with a brittle burnt sugar topping and creamy nutmeg-spiced filling. So good.

I am something of a Crouchy snob. It is sooo far away from civilised public transport options and a little too luvvy for my liking on a Sunday morning (prams everywhere). However Bar Esteban makes it worth the journey, or you know, if you're in the area pop in. They have tables but also space at the bar, so they'll be able to accomodate you in some way.

Website here, call in advance or try your luck.
Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blogBar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London best tapas in London Best London blog best London blog Bar Esteban Crouch End Crouch Hill Tapas best tapas in London best tapas in

Pages